Cindy Tittle Moore, firstname.lastname@example.org
Table of Contents
* Food dishes
* Car restraints
* Chew Toys
* Dog Houses
* What Kind of Pet ID Should I Use?
A wide variety of collars exist. Leather collars are nice, strong and sturdy, but they do pick up smells and if they get wet, may become brittle or start to rot. Nylon stays much cleaner, but may fade, especially with the brighter colors. Sometimes nylon rips unexpectedly when encountering something sharp.
A partial listing:
* Flat buckle collars. These may come in either nylon, leather, or sometimes cloth-covered nylon. These are the buckle type, with holes along part of the collar for some adjustment.
* Flat quick-release collars. Like above, but with a quick release snap rather than the buckle. Nylon only. These are very convenient for easy removal of the collar. Some kinds are adjustable as well, to a greater degree than the above-mentioned collars, without the extra collar hanging at the end in smaller sizes. This is very useful with a growing puppy. Some of these quick release snaps will break more easily than you might expect.
* Rolled leather collars. These usually have a buckle. These avoid the chafing or hair breakage that flat collars sometimes do to dogs.
* Braided nylon collars. These very thin collars are often used in the show ring. Most people do not use these collars. They are not very sturdy. Many of them tighten in the same way a choke collar does. Unless you are showing your dog, don’t bother with them.
* Halter-style collars. These are marketed under a wide variety of names and are really a training tool, although they may be used in place of a collar. There are several variations, but the principle is that the collar goes around the nose and is anchored on the neck. The leash is snapped on under the chin. The leash action is thus on the nose, much like a halter on a horse. The dog cannot pull when the restraint is on the nose. These should NOT be confused with a muzzle — the dog is not prevented from opening its mouth. Halter-style collars are especially useful in helping train a dog away from constantly pulling on the leash. Owners with back problems will use these as “insurance.” You do not leave these collars on unattended dogs.
* Choke chains. Sometimes called training collars or slip collars. A wide variety, from large links to small links, usually metal. In longer haired breeds, may pull hair out around neck. Generally used for “corrections,” hence the sliding action. Be sure to have the collar on properly, check pictures for correct placement. The longer and heavier the chain is, the less effective the correction is (the collar should loosen the instant you release pressure). Do not leave this type of collar on an unattended dog, as it might catch on something and choke the dog. Don’t use them on a puppy. Don’t put your dog’s tags on them, that will interfere with their action. For a good fit, buy one that barely fits over the dogs ears when you put it on and is the smallest/lightest possible in that length. A very heavy chain will not give a good correction. A “curb-link” type of chain is very good and minimizes catching of hair.
* Pinch or prong collars. These are a corrective tool. They are not intended to be a “normal” collar, but are to be used while training. They have a prong arrangement on the inside of the collar that tightens around the neck in a correction. A properly fitting collar rides high on the neck just under the ears. It *cannot* be slid over the head, you have to take one link out and fasten it closed around the dog’s neck. Never leave on unsupervised. These collars should never be used on a puppy.
* Harnesses. If your dog is small or delicate, using a harness instead of a collar when walking will avoid neck injuries. Be sure the harness fits comfortably and will not chafe the arm pits. You will probably want to use the harness for walking and still have a normal collar for the tags. If you have a big dog that likes to pull, getting a harness will only improve pulling power. There are some harnesses that are “no pull” harnesses. They work on the principle that the dog feels like it will fall on its face when it pulls. They don’t work on every dog, but work quite well when they do. Tip: test them in the pet store before you buy them to be sure it works for you.
* If you like to ride bicycles, consider getting a Springer and training your dog to run alongside of you. A Springer will keep the dog from pulling you over while it’s learning to follow you and is breakaway in case of emergency. Available in mail order catalogs. There are several manufacturers of these type of products, all fairly similar and similarly priced.
* Electronic collars are strictly for training and should never, ever be used without the help and advice from a professional. Improperly used, these collars can destroy a dog’s self confidence, desire to work and general good will. In general, electronic collars are not recommended for most dog owners.
Again, there are many kinds of leashes, in different lengths. You will probably want a short leash for walking in crowds, a longer leash for just walking along, and an extra long leash (that could just be rope) for some training exercises.
You can find a variety of snaps on leashes. The most common is a hook with a knob that pulls down to open the hook (snap hooks). Another kind is a hook where the lower part pushes in (spring hooks). The latter are better as they don’t accidentally release. Look for hooks with swivels to avoid twisting. There are a few hooks that actually screw closed. They are hard to find but can be useful for some people.
* Flat nylon leashes. The most common. They come in a variety of colors and lengths.
* Braided rope leashes. These look like the rope used in rock climbing, with the same colorful patterns. These are sometimes easier on the hand and are quite sturdy.
* Leather leashes. These range from the plain to the intricately braided. Take care to keep them out of the water to prevent brittleness. Inspect them for wear. Shorter ones, two to four feet, are ideal for training.
* Metal link leashes. Especially if your dog likes to chew on leashes. Sometimes combined with leather, especially for the handle. Not a good leash to use with a choke-chain collar.
* Flexi-leads. Developed in Germany, these are spring-loaded, retractable leashes that have a minimum length of 2.5 feet and varying maximum lengths. They come in a variety of sizes. The handle is bulky because it contains the retracting assembly, but there is a comfortable hand grip. Be careful — it is easy to get wrapped up in the flexi-lead and rope-burn yourself or at least get all tangled. These leashes are ideal for letting the dog explore around you while you walk along. They are not very good to use when training your dog because of the amount of give in the rope even when the length is locked in.
If you wish to find the best products for all your pet need, then I would highly recommend you to check out Diamond Pup and go through their various posts which can help improve the way you take care of your pets.
In general you want to get ceramic or metal food dishes. Plastic food dishes acquire microscopic scratches in which bacteria flourishes. You should wash the food dishes frequently, just as you do your own. Always supply fresh water with each meal.
If your dog has long hound ears, you should get the cone-shaped high dishes that help keep the ears out of the food and water. Otherwise, any dish will do fine for your dog. There are lots of cute dog dishes out there.
Some of the larger breeds should have their food dishes elevated to reduce strain on the neck and back. Most mail-order companies carry metal frames for dishes. You can also try wooden boxes. See this bluebuffalo.compage for younger canine diets as well. Another possibility is to obtain traffic cones and cut the tips off — food dishes then fit snugly on top.
You should have some way of restraining your dog in the car. This is for your own safety as well as your dog’s. An unrestrained dog that climbs everywhere may get into the driver’s lap and cause havoc. An unrestrained dog that likes to chew may destroy the interior of the car. Even an unrestrained dog that lays quietly may be severely injured if you get into an accident.
There are several types of restraints:
* Harnesses. There are a variety of different restraints that use the harness and the seat belt to restrain the dog.
* Screens. You can purchase metal screens that fence off an area of the car for your dog. These are usually used in trucks, sporting vehicles, vans, and station wagons.
* Crates. You can get a crate to fit your dog and keep it in your car. This is not feasible for everyone, especially the larger your dog is and the smaller your vehicle is, but is probably the safest method of restraint.
* Pickup leashes. There are various ways to restrain a dog in the back of a pick up truck. These are generally not advisable, but some people do use them. But if your dog must ride in the back of a pickup, do use some type of leash. Crates, fastened down, are even better.
* Leashes. You can even use a leash: clip it on your dog, and either tie the other end to an arm-rest on the door, or close the door on a loop of it in such a way that the dog’s mobility is quite restricted. Not the best long term solution, but it can help in a pinch.
Nylabones are best for keeping teeth clean. Followed by either Gumabones or Nylafloss. Virtually any chew toy has potential problems, always keep an eye out for them.
Nylabones are most highly recommended. They cost about 3 times as much as a rawhide but last for a very long time. Some dogs don’t like them and may need some encouragement; most will happily use them. Some dogs chow down on them so enthusiastically that they get “slab” fractures on their teeth. Nylabones should be replaced when the ends show signs of wear.
Gumabones are similar to nylabones, but a bit softer and without as much tooth cleaning ability. The manufacturer says that Gumabones are more likable and serve as toys, but the Nylabone is necessary to satisfy frustration chewing and chewing due to a need to chew. Some dogs have trouble with flatulence when they ingest the small pieces of gumabone that they chew off. Replace when the toy shows signs of crumbling. Note that there are many kinds of toys out there made of soft rubber — Gumabones is a particular brand name of a common sort of dog toy.
A similar toy is the “tuffy” or “kong” (several manufacturers & copycats) — usually a red cone-shaped toy made of rubber that is sturdier than the Gumabone variety. It comes in a giant black size, various smaller red sizes, and one that is white and blue with a throw strap that floats. These are guaranteed against destruction. This toy has a hollow center and hiding treats in it can provide your dog with much enjoyment.
Nylafloss (also rope bone, booda bone)
Nylafloss is also well accepted and is the best tooth cleaner of all. To many dogs, though, it is only interesting when you wave it in the dog’s face. (Nylafloss looks like very a thick, knotted rope.) Watch out for dogs that like to chew them through and swallow pieces of string.
Rawhide is not recommended by most people because the dogs tend to swallow large pieces, which swell and sometimes block the intestines. Also, if the shank gets slimy but the knot is still hard, the dog can swallow the shank and choke on the knot. You can prevent this by buying rawhide in other shapes, such as chips, or buying shredded and compressed rawhide treats (although these do not last as long). Lastly, and much more commonly, they cost a fortune if you have a mid-to-large dog or a dog with powerful jaws. If you do use them, look for US-or-locally manufactured ones; imported ones sometimes have chemical residues.
There are specially treated bones that resist splintering, and you can hide treats in the hollow center, giving your dog hours of enjoyment trying to get them out. Untreated organic bones may splinter and cause tooth wear or even gum and mouth injuries. Eating the pieces often results in constipation. The best bones are the large ones that resist splintering. Replace after cracks or splinters appear. Small bones, especially chicken bones should NEVER be given to a dog. They will crunch down and swallow the bones, which may lodge in the throat and choke the dog, puncture the esophagus or stomach lining, or block the intestines. If your dog is not immediately killed, it will require expensive surgery to get the bone out of its body.
Cow hooves are better than rawhide because they break down into smaller pieces and are much cheaper and more durable. However, like organic bones, they can cause gum and mouth injuries if they chip. They smell somewhat and may cause tooth wear. Smoked hooves are available that don’t smell as much. Pick out the largest, most solid hooves; replace when they are worn down to a small piece. Stop using them if your dog splinters large chunks off them. Slab fractures are also possible with cow hooves.
Another item is CHOOZ, by the makers of Nylabones. This item looks like a nylabone but is crunchy like a hard dog biscuit. It can also be tossed into your oven or microwave to change its texture (makes it lighter and more like a hard bread). CHOOZ has been involved in at least one case of gastric blockage; you may not want to use it.
Pig’s ears look like good chew toys, but the truth is that dogs can eat them in about 15 minutes or so. Dogs love them, but they are not a chew toy and should be used as an occasional treat instead. Given too often, they will cause loose stools.
In general, your dog should sleep with you in your room at night. However, you may still want to provide it with shelter, etc. if you leave it outside while you are gone, for example.
A variety are available, and you can make your own. In general, look for an elevated floor and sturdy construction. The dog house should be placed where it will be cool in the summer and warm in the winter. Be sure it is not placed so as to assist escape over the fence. Many dogs, particularly larger ones, appreciate a flat roof (make sure it has a slight slope for drainage) that they can lie on when the weather is hot. Do not be surprised if your dog does not use the dog house. If you place bedding in the dog house, be sure to clean it frequently, otherwise pests such as fleas will take up residence.
You may want to construct a kennel or a dog run for your dog. Use concrete or pea gravel for the floor to improve drainage. Make sure the run includes a roofed over area for shelter from the elements. Clean out the pen daily to prevent worms and disease. Secure the water supply so that the dog can’t tip it over (try a galvanized bucket with a double-ended hook to fasten it to the wall. If you use chain link fencing, be sure to put runners through it if you will keep a bitch in season in it to prevent mismating. The height should be sufficient to prevent jumping or climbing; some breeds are better at this than others. Make sure not to leave the dog in the kennels if you are planning to go for a trip which could take you a considerable amount of time and utilize the Boarding kennels services which can take care of your dog while you are away. These places have professionals who can guarantee the health of your dog and also provide it an unlimited amount of fun which it is bound to enjoy.
Even if you keep your dog inside, you will want to restrain it from certain areas of the house. A common way to do this is to use a child-barrier. Pet stores and mail-order companies stock barriers sturdy enough for bigger dogs. Examples of restraint might include: keeping puppies in the kitchen or in areas where there is linoleum, keeping young dogs in a specific room when going through the teething stage, keeping your dog downstairs or in the basement, etc.
A common barrier used in dog shows is the x-pen. This is a eight-sectioned, foldable heavy guage wire fence. The ends are clipped together to form an approximate 4′X4′ square area; or several x-pens may be clipped together for a larger area. Do not leave a dog alone in an x-pen; another person should always supervise a dog in an x-pen. The exception is that this can be suitable to restrain a small puppy with, especially if the x-pen is propped so that it cannot fall over.
A crate is another restraint, this has already been described above.
You should give your dog its own bed. Try folded up towels for young puppies. There are a variety of beds for the fully grown dog — try ny of them. Be careful with cedar-filled beds. There are reports that cedar reacts with urine to produce poisonous fumes. You should not let your dog sleep on the bed with you, instead insist that it sleep on the floor next to the bed.
What Kind of Pet ID Should I Use?
There are several steps you can take to increase the chances of your dog being returned to you if lost, or to decrease the chances of your dog being stolen.
By far the most important piece of information on your pet’s tag is your telephone number, including the area code. Everything else is just optional. Some people do not like to put their dog’s name on the collar, as that can make it easier for a thief to coax your dog along with its name. The choice is up to you. Attach the tag to your dog’s collar securely. Do not use the “S” hooks — many tags are lost that way. Use the keyring type of attachment, or better yet, have the tag riveted onto the collar.
Of course, one problem with tags is that they are easily removed simply by removing the collar.
There are a few services with which you can register a pet tag and you get an ID number and an 800 number for the person who finds your dog to call. Depending on the service, they will guarantee pickup of your pet, necessary veterinary attention and hold the dog until they can contact you.
Get your dog tattooed. Tattoos cannot be removed or lost. This will help identify your dog and get it returned to you (most animal shelters will not destroy a tattooed dog). It helps deter theft and ensures that your pet will not wind up in a laboratory somewhere. Your vet can give you pointers to someone who can tattoo your pet. RC Steele sells a do-it-yourself kit, worth considering if you have multiple dogs.
Tattooing is an excellent way to protect your pets. In fact, there are animal science laboratories and vet clinics around the country that sponsor low-cost tattoo clinics and tattoo “fairs.”
Get the tattoo put on the inside of your dog’s thigh. This is much harder to remove than one placed in your pet’s ear. As long as the dog is over 5 weeks of age, it can be tattooed. The younger the better — puppies are more easily controlled than adult dogs are.
You must get the tattoo number registered, or it isn’t very useful in locating you. If you use a national registry, use a number that will not change. (Social security numbers are good.) There is a one-time fee for registering the number, and you can then register other pets with the same number.
Anesthesia is not *required* to do a tattoo, though it can help. You might consider having your bitch spayed and tattooed at the same time, for example.
You should note that tattooing (or micro-chipping) is a prerequisite for registering a pure-bred dog in some countries, such as Canada.
Unfortunately, tattoos can fade over time. Also, especially in double-coated or long-haired breeds, it may be hard to find the tattoo when the hair grows back. You can keep the area shaven, of course, but your dog might be lost long enough for the hair to grow back.
An alternative increasingly popular throughout North America is the injected microchip. The microchip contains a numbering system that is readable with a scanner. There are three manufacturers and four microchips that have been produced. AVID is marketed by AVID and IdentIchip. Trovan is a German company and their technology is marketed by Infopet. Destron is marketed under a variety of names in the US and by Anitech in Canada. The AVID scanner can read all chips but the Trovan chip. Destron readers can scan all manufacturers chips.
Each company has their own database you can register with. Each microchip has a code that is assigned to you (or your kennel) and your pets, Some of the information that is kept on file are extra emergency numbers to have contacted should your pet be impounded or taken to an animal hospital due to injury or illness. Your vet’s name and number are also included along with any important medical info about your animal. This is important for animals that have life threatening medical conditions that need constant treatment. Keep this information up to date!
Not all shelters check for the chip, but increasing numbers are doing so in the US. There are no documented cases of medical problems related to the insertion of the chip just under the skin. Since tattoos can fade over time, this is an alternative to consider. It takes about 2 minutes to insert the chip and fill out the form. After that, all you have to do is pay yearly dues.
You generally want to be sure that the person doing it has medical training for sterility and health reasons. The chip must be placed between the shoulder blades and not migrate (effectively disappearing). Note that rare occurrence of chip migration does not hurt the dog, but it can make it difficult to read the chip. It’s suggested that you have the chip read periodically to make sure it’s still in place.
The chip itself is about the size and shape of a grain of rice, The needle is hollow and on the end of a syringe that contains the chip, about 3mm wide. Once in, the chip is inserted with the plunger from the syringe and it is done in about 20 seconds.
Who can I contact?
An article in the August 1993 issue of Dog Fancy goes into this further. It’s called “Beyond Dog Tags” and is on page 27. This article lists all the microchip companies, tag registries, and tattoo registries and discusses each of these methods of protecting your dog.
Briefly, these are: Microchips:
* AVID in California (714) 371-7505, nationwide (800) 336-AVID
* Destron in Colorado (303) 444-5306 (Uses Destron chip)
* IdentIchip in Scottsdale, AZ (800) 926-1313 (Uses AVID chip) (Provides programs for breeders, shelters, and vets.)
* InfoPet in Pennsylvania (612) 890-2080 (Uses Trovan chip) also (800) 463-6738
* Home Again, microchip registry in conjuction with the AKC (For both purebred and mixed breed dogs). Contact email@example.com.
* 911-Pets Lost Pet Service Chicago (312) 890-4911
* Petfinders New York (800) 666-LOST or (800) 666-5678
* Pet Find Inc. Oregon (800) AID-A-PET
Tattoo Registries: (generally also register microchips, etc)
* National Dog Registry New York (800) 637-3647 / (800) NDR-DOGS
* Tattoo-A-Pet New York (718) 646-8200 / (800) TAT-TOOS
* U.S. Found Maryland (410) 557-7332
Animal thefts do happen, this is a fear of pet owners everywhere. First of all, if your dog is missing or stolen, you have a responsibility to report it to the police. They may not always be able to do anything about it, but if they get several reports, then they can justify putting some time on it. Don’t make the mistake of thinking that you are bothering the police!
Call the shelters and the local vets and tell them of your loss, they can be on the lookout for your dog. Most vets will take a description of your dog and contact others in the area to keep an eye out for it. Put up flyers in the immediate area. If your dog has been tattooed or micro-chipped, it may show up shortly.
Some more information: _Stolen for Profit_, authored by Judith Reitmen, discusses animal dealers licensed to supply “random source animals” to research labs. The number to report a missing or suspected-stolen animal is 800-StolenPet – this is a automated recording. Their reach-a-live-human number is (415) 453-9984. They can tell you if there have been other reported missing or stolen dogs in your area (if, of course, other people reported to them). Bear in mind that some of these are unnecessarily alarmist type of organizations, but they can still be useful in helping locate a lost pet.
Supplies for Your Dog FAQ
Cindy Tittle Moore, firstname.lastname@example.org
I have not changed the above article a bit, I found it very intresting..